Briefly, to some points,
–CFLs should be left on because switching on-off markedly shortens lifespan
ceolas.net/#li15x
– CFLs are thicker in base and candle type lights are a particular problem in fitting to smaller lamps
-also they can’t to my knowledge currently be made to 60w equivalent brightness without really thickening them
– dimmable ones arer available but morer expensive and cant be used innordinary dimmer circuits (and jamming on fixed max setting gives fire hazard)

Power factor – are paying twice as much straight off for a typical unbalanced CFL (balanced types are rare and expensive)

There are many reasons including incandescent heat
(usually not a waste) and life cycle factors why savings end up insignificant – or non-existent, dependding on usage and other factors
http://www.ceolas.net/#li13x onwards with official and referenced research

While I’m glad for you that you like CFLs,
unfortunately people otherwise do swallow what politicians say,
politicans who along with manufacturers have their agenda
http://www.ceolas.net/#li1ax
– and those with a scientific background who might oppose them, rarely seem to have the time/inclination to involve themselves in public debate.

stick with incandescent for sensor circuits for better response (and some can’t/shouldn’t be used with other lighting anyway)

As you probably know halogens are a more light- efficient type of incandescent light.

Sub-100 w halogens with 100 w+ equivalent brightness are still allowed, though you’ll only be allowed to buy a transparent one
Try Osram or Philips halogen lights for example
(obviously we are talking about GLS halogens, not the low voltage types, I use Philips EcoClassic for example)

Another advantage is that they are slightly smaller than the ordinary incandescents, once you go above a certain wattage eg EcoClassic 105 (in principle banned but
still being supplied) = 150w equiv
140w = 200w equivalent
- so you can fit a brighter bulb in it if you want

Otherwise it’s a 70w Philips ecoclassic (or Osram etc similarly) as a replacement for your 100w light

Like David mentions, this is outdated, the bulbs now days have great effeciency levels.

I do believe that having Smart Switches will do a lot more good though. Features like employee detection and automatic lighting saves a lot more, regardless of what bulb you use.

~kelly

I’ve not found a domestic application yet, where CFL cannot be used to replace bulbs. The latest Philips CFL lamps, that are on general sale to the public, in places like Homebase, are perfectly adequate. The light output is not appreciably different either, and they come to full brightness immediately. I’m not 100% sure what the lumen output from the Philips 11W lamp is, but if Philips are saying the output is equivalent to a 60W lamp they must be pretty sure. I’ll check what lumen output they are claiming and see if they are telling the truth.

The lamp weight doesn’t seem to be a major issue. It’s not appreciably heavy.

Over time all lamps deteriorate and the fail. Under certain conditions all lamps fail more quickly than they would have under ideal conditions. I’m not sure how much worse CFLs are than bulbs or any other lamps. It would be interesting to know how quickly the CFL lumen output deteriorates over a given time period, under certain conditions (e.g. frequent switching, left on for long period, cold temperatures).

It seems you do agree that CFLi are not as good as incandescent lamps ” 6. Colour rendering qualities and colour temperature variance are greatly improved.”

8 CFLi are typically 6 to 8 times heavier than incandescent lamps

“2. “They won’t work in all your houeshold fittings” – Yes they do. Most homes have some form of Bayonet Cap or Edison Screw lampholder. ” yes but they do not physically fit many fight fittings such as wall lights, recessed fittings and small table lamps

‘7. From experience, the heat given off from a 11 Watt Philips CFL is less than a 60 Watt tungsten equivalent.’ and significantly less light!

“5. Lamp life advertised is average lamp. No doubt some lamps will have a poor lamp life and some will have a much greater lamp life.” except those fitted to enclosed fittings that will overheat, those put in locations where they are switched frequently such as hallways, cupboards, toilets etc. Also the life quoted does not account for lamps that take increasingly long times to reach adequate light output and that the light output falls below acceptable levels in an unfortunately short times.

These lamps are not fit for most peoples purposes and you need to acept the fact

Kevan

1. “They have to be left on all the time” – No they don’t.
2. “They won’t work in all your houeshold fittings” – Yes they do. Most homes have some form of Bayonet Cap or Edison Screw lampholder.
3. “They’re made from banned toxins” – Mercury is banned is it? My office is full of fluorescent lamps. It can be recycled you know.
4. Dimmable versions are now available.
5. Lamp life advertised is average lamp. No doubt some lamps will have a poor lamp life and some will have a much greater lamp life.
6. Colour rendering qualities and colour temperature variance are greatly improved.
7. From experience, the heat given off from a 11 Watt Philips CFL is less than a 60 Watt tungsten equivalent.
8. CFLs are not appreciabley heavier or larger than standard ‘bulbs’.
9. Even CFLs with a poorer power factor are still using considerably less electricity than standard tungsten lamps, and we only pay for kWh anyway.

This story is garbage. It should be recycled, just like the CFLs.